A New Fine-Dining Restaurant in London, Staffed by Ex-Homeless People

By The New York Times (World News) | Created at 2024-10-01 04:05:09 | Updated at 2024-10-01 07:18:30 3 hours ago
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In London’s upmarket Primrose Hill, a Michelin-starred chef is employing people on the edge of homelessness as chefs, wait staff and cocktail makers.

A view of the kitchen, with food laid out in stainless steel trays and chefs in aprons at work. In one corner a woman is cutting lemons.
Staff at work at Home Kitchen restaurant in London. Almost every member of the 19-person crew has been homeless.Credit...Andrew Testa for The New York Times

Patricia Cohen

By Patricia Cohen

Patricia Cohen spoke to staff at Home Kitchen in Primrose Hill, London, and sampled a delicious lemon tart.

Oct. 1, 2024, 12:01 a.m. ET

It’s been three weeks since the restaurant, Home Kitchen, opened its doors and Mimi Mohamed is pretty sure she knows the lemon tart recipe by heart. But just in case, a small notebook where she has carefully written out the ingredients is propped up at the back of the steel counter: 18 lemons; 420 grams of butter; 900 grams of sugar; 24 eggs.

The recipe is from Adam Simmonds, a celebrated Michelin star-winning chef. Novices like Ms. Mohamed are not usually found in his kitchens, but this new, upscale dining venture is not usual. Almost every member of the 19-person team has been homeless.

“The crew downstairs in the kitchen, they make so many mistakes, but that’s OK,” Mr. Simmonds said with a laugh. “We accept that and we learn from it.”

He is sitting upstairs in the front dining room. A large window overlooks the main commercial street in Primrose Hill, a neighborhood in north London that oozes British charm.

The idea was hatched four years ago by Alex Brown, director of Soup Kitchen London, where Mr. Simmonds took a turn cooking at the start of the pandemic. The most common question from those who lined up for food was “Do you know of any jobs?”

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Home Kitchen is aimed at breaking the cycle of homelessness and joblessness by training people for a career in the restaurant industry.Credit...Andrew Testa for The New York Times

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