Chanel brings back Eighties power dressing at haute couture show

Chanel celebrated Eighties extravagance in their spring/summer 2025 haute couture show in Paris.

This was the French fashion house’s second couture show since the exit of previous creative director, Virginie Viard.

It’s the first from Chanel following the appointment of Matthieu Blazy, formerly of Bottega Veneta, but Blazy will not be staging his debut showcase until October. This show was credited to the studio.

To celebrate 110 years of haute couture, Chanel showcased classic yet fresh designs, exploring how one reinvents timeless and imaginative design year after year.

The show was an ode to Chanel’s greats: from Gabrielle Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld, it also evoked excitement for the new, highly anticipated creative director.

While showcasing bohemian and classically feminine silhouettes, the show moved through time, introducing fuchsia, violet and lime silks, heavy shoulder pads and pussy-bow blouses encapsulating the fun and verve of Eighties Chanel.

“[Gabrielle Chanel] loved colour,” said one Chanel technician. Referring to look 15 – a baby blue tweed set – she said, “the fabric is pale blue but the braid is very bright. It will mark the garment […] braiding is the Chanel signature.”

The braided tweed was indeed eye-catching, with bold reds and ochre yellows stitched onto beige tweed – a tribute to Gabrielle Chanel’s palette.

Other quintessential Chanel codes were prevalent, such as gold chaining, embossed metal buttons and archetypal topstitching.

The classic Chanel skirt suit was renewed in peach and lemon tweeds with vibrant braiding at the cuffs and hems, or else cut into vibrant silk jewel tones.

Bows were once again a recurring motif, turning up on organza blouses and tweed jackets.

To a lesser extent, balloon sleeves were also a recurring motif, perhaps to balance out the broad-shouldered Eighties silhouette that otherwise dominated the runway, bringing a bohemian and feminine savoir-faire.

While peppered with classic design details, the collection was anything but reserved.

Taking inspiration from Yves Saint Laurent’s maximalist capes of the 1980s, one closing look showcased a capacious powder blue silk cape fastened with a black velvet pussy bow, signalling excitement for the evening looks.

The closing looks circled back to Gabrielle Chanel’s founding style, as champagne sparkles and shift silhouettes concluded the show.

Celebrities sitting front row to witness Chanel’s journey through the ages included Kylie Jenner and Pamela Anderson.

Jenner, 27, wore a cropped cream skirt suit adorned with silver chains, black ballet sling-backs and a quilted Chanel vanity case.

Anderson, 57, wore an all-white bohemian ensemble, featuring an Edwardian neckline, fluted sleeves and wide-leg trousers.

The Baywatch star completed the look with square black sunglasses and crystal heel pumps.