Posted on January 21, 2025
Jill Di Donato, HuffPost, January 21, 2025
Donald Trump’s inauguration was a spectacle that went beyond politics. People across the world scrolled through their feeds to see how Washington’s most elite turned up — and by that, we mean what they wore.
For the most part, people were dressed for a somber affair in a sea of unremarkable navy and dark earth tones. However, one look that drew acknowledgment for its dramatic visual significance is the cowrie shell collar Supreme Court Justice Ketanji Brown Jackson wore around her neck.
“Even without understanding the specific cultural significance of cowrie shells, the visual impact of this piece is undeniable,” fashion and costume historian Shelby Ivey Christie told HuffPost. “The dramatic scale of the necklace against the black robe communicates importance and intentionality.”
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After all, Jackson is the first Black female justice to sit on the court. “Even folks unfamiliar with its cultural significance can recognize it as a meaningful choice.”
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For readers unfamiliar with cowrie shells, Christie explained that they are “small, glossy sea shells that have been integral to African culture and commerce for thousands of years.”
“These shells served as currency across Africa, Asia and the Pacific Islands well into the 20th century,” Christie said, adding that they can be worn as jewelry, “strung into elaborate necklaces, sewn onto garments, woven into hair and attached to masks and ceremonial dress.” She also noted that royal regalia often features cowrie shells.
“In many African traditions, cowrie shells are believed to carry protective properties and spiritual significance,” she said. “They’re often seen as conduits of ancestral wisdom and protection, used in divination practices and spiritual ceremonies.”
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