An expert guide to going grey now it’s in fashion

Grey hair is something we used to worry about. Trying our best to delay the inevitable.

Not anymore.

That’s thanks to the likes of Helen Mirren, Andie MacDowell – and most recently Salma Hayek – embracing their salt and pepper or icy white locks. Now the look is something people aspire to.

But from ash to silver to pewter – knowing which shade to opt for, how to care for it and how long the process will take are all crucial questions to ask before diving in.

Whether you’re born with bright blonde or vibrant red locks – as we age, the pigment in our hair gives way to a white or grey hue.

Here leading hair stylists answer the most asked questions when it comes to grey haircare, providing the ultimate guide to going grey.

The root cause

“[Grey hair] happens when melanin, the pigment that gives hair its colour, starts to decrease,” explains Murdock London‘s senior barber, Stefan Clark.

“As we age, the melanocytes in our hair follicles gradually decline in number and this reduction in melanin leads to a loss of pigment, resulting in the appearance of grey hair,” says co-founder of Haug London Haus, Siobhan Haug.

But depending on when you see your first grey hair is all relative.

“If your mother or father started getting white hairs at a young age, it is likely that you will as well,” explains Philip Kingsley trichologist, Anabel Kingsley. “On average, most people’s hair is 50% white by the time they’re 50 years old.

“Certain medications and health conditions can also cause hair to turn white. For instance, vitamin B12 deficiency, pernicious anaemia and thyroid disorders can cause premature greying.

“Stress has also been linked to premature greying,” says Kingsley.

How long does the process take?

Depending on whether you’re starting from scratch or have dabbled in ‘grombre’ – the time it takes to sport a full head of grey varies from person to person.

“Growing out your natural grey hair can take anywhere from several months to over a year, depending on your hair length and how much you’re transitioning from a previously dyed look,” explains celebrity stylist to the likes of Billie Eilish and Michelle Keegan, Luke Benson.

If you’re keen to make a smooth transition from colour to grey, Haug recommends seeing a colour specialist.

“[They] can help remove heavy colour build-up, gradually lightening your hair and minimising the contrast between your roots and ends.”

How to go grey if you colour your hair

If you’ve dyed your hair throughout your life, but are beginning to become weary, there’s a different approach you can take when going grey.

If you’ve been dying your hair, “you can go for highlights,” says Haug. “If you’ve had all-over colour, highlights can help break up the stark line between your natural grey and the old colour, allowing your natural colour to grow in more seamlessly.”

The cut is just as important to the transition as your colour, as grey hair is often elevated with structure, so a bob or sharp cut is the way forward.

“[As a stylist] we can cut or layer hair to reduce the contrast between dyed and natural strands or add highlights and lowlights to blend in the greys seamlessly,” says Paul Mitchell‘s technical educator, Victoria Panting.

“Look at icons like Sarah Jessica Parker embracing her grey strands and Emma Thompson rocking the full grey look! They’re proof that going grey isn’t just about aging but a style choice.”

How to know which shade is right for you

Grey is very much like blonde in that there are various hues, tones and shades to pick from.

“Choosing the right shade of grey for you will all depend on factors such as your natural hair colour, your skin tone, eye colour and your personal preferences,” explains British Colour Technician of the Year, Charley Henery, technical artistic director at TONI&GUY.

“A cooler skin tone and lighter coloured eyes will be complemented with shades of platinum and silver, whilst warmer skin tones and darker eye colours are best suited to shades of charcoal and slate.”

“Ultimately, the shade of grey that you choose will depend on whether you’re wanting a subtle result, or looking to make a bold statement,” says Henery.

A tip she shares is to opt for lighter shades of platinum if you have fine hair, as this adds brightness and the illusion of volume.

How to care for grey hair

Grey hair is more fragile than naturally coloured hair, and therefore requires a little more gentle care.

“Grey hair has different needs – it’s often drier and can develop a yellowish tinge over time,” explains Panting, “So hydration and toning are essential.”

Using a weekly hair mask and dialling back on heat is crucial, as hair is weakest when it’s wet and more prone to damage.

So instead of excessively blow-drying from soaking wet, rough dry your hair, then brush through with a comb, apply a heat protectant, then dry.

The one thing about grey hair, is that you never want it to look dull. “Keune’s Silver Savior Shampoo and Conditioner are excellent for neutralising brassy tones in grey or white hair, while keeping it soft and manageable,” says Benson.