How to spend the perfect weekend in Bruges

If you can face the 366-step climb, start with a 360-degree view from above the very centre of Bruges, standing next to the carillon and clock bells at the top of the Belfort, the city belfry on the Markt (the central square). Then head across to the Burg, Bruges's second main square and the prettiest, to admire the historical buildings. The Stadhuis is one of the finest town halls in Belgium. It is 14th-century in origin – although it has received a neo-Gothic makeover both inside and out. The double-decker Basilica of the Holy Blood has an atmospheric 12th-century chapel below, and a fabulously ornate neo-Gothic church above, where you can sometimes see pilgrims kissing the file containing the holy relic. Find more of the best free things to do in Bruges in our guide.

Leave the Burg through the passage called the Blinde-Ezelstraat to reach the old fish market – Vismarkt – and spend a while wandering around this picturesque corner on the bend of a canal. The Rozenhoedkaai offers one of the most famous views of the city, with the Belfort reflected in the water. If you want to do a canal trip (30 minutes), this is a good place to catch a boat.

Start the evening with a drink at ’t Brugs Beertje, deservedly the city’s most celebrated pub, with 300 Belgian beers to choose from. Then, for dinner, sample the brilliant cooking of Bonte B. Bernard Bonte is one of a new generation of outstanding chefs taking Flemish cuisine to new heights. The restaurant, in a grand old townhouse, is stylish and spacious, with elegantly simple Swedish design and wooden floors – the perfect foil for the subtle complexity of the dishes served: asparagus and Zeebrugge brown shrimps; truffle linguine with beech mushrooms; molten chocolate cake with yogurt sorbet and caramel. For a nightcap, try the elegant and cosy bar Groot Vlaenderen. Find more of the best bars in Bruges in our guide.

Start the day at the Gruuthusemuseum, which stands next to (and is linked to) the Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk that you saw yesterday; it is a treasure house of the furniture and decorations and arts and crafts that vividly evoke Bruges’ past wealth.

You will want to spend the afternoon in eastern Bruges, so start walking in that direction along the pretty canals on Dijver, Steenhouwersdijk and Groenerei to reach Langestraat, perhaps taking in some of the intriguing shops on Hoogstraat, such as Djamil Zenasni (upholstery and interior design, at No. 42) and Abbeloos Antiques (No. 31).

Lunch is at Lion Belge, a wonderfully full-on Belgian eatery, where you'll find dishes from rundstoofvlees (beef stew) to gehaktbroodje (meatloaf). Find more of the best restaurants in Bruges in our guide.

Go for an aperitif at Café Rose Red before enjoying some of the best French-Belgian cooking – including sashimi of seabass, North Sea brown shrimps, and pork cheeks – in Bruges at Assiette Blanche. Food is served in a polished, lounge-like dining room with comfortable banquettes and modern upholstered chairs, surrounded by wood panelling and poster-size photo portraits of cinema stars. You could then round off the day with a beer in a 13th-century cellar at Le Trappiste.

Athough the Stadhuis was originally built in 1376–1420, it underwent massive neo-Gothic restoration in the 19th century. This is a wonder in itself, especially the richly Pre-Raphaelite-esque murals in the Gothic Hall painted by Albrecht and Juliaan Devriendt in 1895.

The eastern end of Langestraat is evolving into an interesting area, with some eye-catching shops such as Den Elder (secondhand music and books, at No. 84), several good restaurants including the splendidly folksy Lion Belge, plus the lively bar and music venue De Kelk, and, right at the end, the bar of the Bauhaus hostel, popular with all ages.

The Grenadier Guards trace their origins back to 1656, when the future Charles II was staying in Bruges during his exile. A plaque on the corner of the Grand Hotel Casselbergh (formerly the Huis de Zeven Torens, where Charles resided) commemorates this.

Bruges has several grand hotels to choose from, but don't dismiss the city's plethora of b&bs, many of which offer pampering accommodation in atmospheric historic buildings. Bonifacius, Maison le Dragon, Canal Deluxe Bed and Breakfast and B Guest are good examples.

If you're getting the Eurostar and onward train to Bruges, travel light and save on taxis: the city centre is only 20 minutes’ walk from the station. Brussels airport is around an hour cab ride away, or 90 minutes by train.

Any place looks better when the sun shines, and Bruges is certainly no exception: in spring for the sea of daffodils in the Begijnhof; in summer for the long, warm evenings; in autumn for the golden colours; and in winter for the low-angled sun lighting up the skyline. But it can rain at any time (pack an umbella!), and winter days can be surprising bitter. In the high seasons, the main thoroughfares will be crowded: best try mid-week. In the low season, you get better deals and fewer people.

Hotel Dukes Palace is the only five-star hotel in Bruges. You might think it almost too grand for this little city, but the relaxed, professional polish of its staff, the pampering attention to detail, and the central location, make this a special place to stay, and at prices that are often surprisingly affordable. 

There are 70 shops in Bruges selling versions of the justifiably famous Belgian chocolates. Which to choose? One excellent local brand is Dumon (Simon Stevinplein 11; 00 32 50 33 33 60), selling all manner of delectable confectionary.

Bruges has three breweries: De Halve Maan (producing Brugse Zot), Bourgogne des Flandres, and Fort Lapin. You can find their excellent products, plus some 400 other Belgian beers, at 2Be.

When Antony first came to Bruges in the Seventies, he was amazed to find a medieval city so richly preserved. Today, he continues to be amazed by its second renaissance as a youthful, thriving hub of culture and cuisine.