Matcha is putting this corner of China on the map and drawing its locals home

TONGREN, Guizhou – When matcha started featuring in an ever-growing array of foods worldwide, from photogenic drinks to cake, Chinese entrepreneur Mei Wen felt a growing sense of pride at watching the vivid green powder take the world by storm.

For much of it is not coming from Japan, which is traditionally associated with matcha. Instead, it comes from her home town, which has been quietly gaining fame online as “China’s matcha capital”.